I am grateful this week to be trekking and experiencing new things. Long vacations have been rare during my career. In fact, my first two-week vacation ever was in 2019. I had planned a similar European excursion for the summer of 2020, but COVID came to call, and, as they say, the rest is history. But, 2021 brought some respite from the challenges. It brought a vaccination, promise, and opportunity. I got the vaccine as rapidly as I was able, and have been glad to have it.
My trip was made possible by the vaccination. With proof of vaccination, I was able to travel into Germany. Thereafter, I have progressed city to city, country to country, a veritable "
Planes, Trains, and Automobiles" (Paramount, 1987). Just before I departed, the airline emailed to advise me that while vaccination is good enough for getting into Europe, I would need a negative test result within three days of flight time to re-enter the U.S. It is harder for an American citizen to travel into the U.S. than from the U.S. More on the adventure of the testing in a future post.
Prior to outbound boarding, the Federal Republic of Germany required me to upload photographs of my vaccination card and various passport details. It made somewhat dire warnings on the internet about the penalties for failing to do so. That website generated confirmations; I printed them and carried them across the Atlantic as instructed; something else I had to care for an monitor.
Before I departed, I noted in the news that France and Italy had adopted a "green passport," Wall Street Journal: "
France, Italy Require Covid-19 Passes for Restaurants, Bars." France was toward the end of my trek. Arriving in early September, I anticipated their "passport" to be well underway. Officially, the French are reportedly very serious about the passport. The Journal reports:
"French establishments that don’t check the health passes risk a €1,500 fine, the equivalent of about $1,763, which can rise to €9,000 and a year in prison following the third violation within a month."
A year in prison is significant.
Upon arrival in Germany, I am fairly sure I could have just walked out the "departure" doors of the terminal without bothering with customs or immigration. The airport was seemingly unsecure in this regard. I didn't. Instead, I stood in line for 30 minutes to present those critical papers. I immediately noticed there was very little regard among travelers for "social distancing" in that part of Germany. Everywhere, there are reminders to "please keep your distance," but they were persistently ignored.
There are assiduous mask requirements, but people habitually crowd together. I have noted the incongruity of that repeatedly during this pandemic (I hear Sting: "
Don't stand, Don't stand so, Don't stand so close to me," 1980). The immigration officials glanced at my vaccination card, scanned my passport, and looked dismissively at those confirmation prints about which Germany's website seemed so adamant. They seemingly put far less importance on them than the website had.
On my first day in Germany, I ate out twice without incident. There was no "every other table" or other attempt at distancing. On the second day, walking into a train station food court, I was confronted by the janitor. Perturbed at my lack of a mask, he loudly berated me. He expressed anger, but his eyes showed fear. I purchased food and sat down; the same janitor demanded to know if I was vaccinated. I assured him. He loudly demanded to see proof. I showed him. Then he demanded that I complete a "tracing" card for identity, address, and more. He took no steps, however, to verify the information I provided.
Thereafter, I was not asked for proof of vaccination again in Germany, over the course of several days. I rode trains, stayed in hotels, ate at carry-outs, at upscale restaurants, and more moderate sit-down spots. All requested masking inside (until seated), but nothing more. All had "distancing" stickers, but did not enforce them.
In Switzerland, I was asked at each lodging to prove vaccination status upon check-in. Each lodging and restaurant similarly required masking indoors, in common areas, and until seated in a restaurant. Restaurants commonly inquired "are you vaccinated," "bist du geimpft?" However, there was no consistency in asking to see vaccination proof.
I saw many crowds. I frequently walked into very populated squares and plazas, though the news reports tourism remains diminished this year. I found myself inadvertently in one French festival with a band, rides, food, and vendors. I later found myself in a large and thriving German wine-tasting celebration, including music, a fashion show, and very dense crowds.
After Germany and Switzerland, I arrived in France. There, I saw many customers showing their registration, or "passport" to restaurateurs. It was a QR code, convenient on their mobiles. I was assiduously asked for vaccination proof in France; in the food establishments as required, but also even in one retail store. Having strolled many shops and boutiques in France, being asked for vaccination proof in that one was surprising. The requirement of the "passport" mandate in France was palpable. Restaurants seemed very concerned about compliance.
There were inconsistencies. In one town, I found that I could buy carry-out food from a variety of vendors without proof. However, one familiar fast food vendor in that village had elaborate signs and an employee checking everyone at the door. There was no distinction between dining in or carry-out. I concluded that this was a "better safe than sorry" effort at compliance.
I was struck by that business' increased effort compared to the other local establishments. By the time I encountered it, I had made various carry-out food purchases, with none requiring vaccination proof. This was the only business I encountered with an employee dedicated to the task of vaccination monitoring.
Then, I encountered an odd bakery that allowed anyone into their store, masked, and you could purchase for carry-out without challenge. But to eat at one of their few outside sidewalk tables, things became complicated. "Carry-out" meant leave. To sit at their outside tables, vaccination proof was required. Without menu's you had to mask, enter, and select; then you had to exit, unmask, and sit at their table. Your choices were then brought outside to the table and served. Intriguingly, one might as easily sit a few feet or yards away on a wall or fountain and more simply eat carry-out, but at these outside tables, vaccination proof was required.
Thus, the "French distinction," seemed to be on-premises sitting. If you would sit, inside or outside, at a vendor's premises, then the proof was requested. The thought occurred to me that perhaps sitting on a fountain wall was not the best idea. Of course, that is where the pigeons congregated, but also where your chances of sitting next to someone "non-vaccine." Of course, not everyone is vaccinated. France
claims a 70% rate among adults, which is significant. The US is
said to be about 64%. Despite the slow pace, the vaccination is making progress.
But, in France, one may also eat in a restaurant with proof of a negative test within the prior 48 hours (compared to the U.S. immigration policy of a negative test within the prior three days, which does not mean 72 hours).
I thought, upon hearing of that 48-hour test result exception, of the challenges of finding and scheduling testing in the early days of COVID-19. But, as I walked those winding old-world streets, I ran across various opportunities for free testing. People were lined up in some instances. A couple of people even looked as if they might be socially distancing as they waited. Despite being outside, most around the free test sights even wore masks.
It was therefore somewhat of a relief to depart France, but a last incongruity awaited. Having entered the train station there without incident, we had a ticketing question. An animated group in matching T-shirts seemed convenient, so we approached them. We got our answer but were then asked for vaccination proof. Having checked our cards, they adorned us with colorful wristbands. This "checkpoint" was checking only those who approached them. We noticed the vast majority of travelers neither stopped there nor wore such wristbands. This was the first and only time that vaccination was a concern in hundreds of miles of train travel throughout various countries.
The environment in the next area of Germany was less onerous. Upon arrival back there, it was a notable difference in the atmosphere. Though proof of vaccination was required for hotel check-in, the dining was simpler. More logically, the dining there also included the social distancing to which I was more accustomed. However, in this region, the "contact tracing" sheets were a fixture at every sit-down restaurant.
In a very short detour through the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, I found their requirements and practices very similar to France's, but without the "passport" cell phone presentations to which I had become accustomed. I was once again asked for proof of vaccination even to sit outside, but noticed the establishments there positioned tables to observe social distancing.
In all, the efforts at combating COVID are noticeable across the continent. Every hotel checked for vaccination. Restaurants were a mix of vaccination checking, contact tracing, and distancing. Some were adamant, others less so. Most were only concerned if you sat in their establishment, while others were as concerned about their tables on the sidewalk. None were concerned about sitting next to their sidewalk tables, a distinction that is hard to comprehend. Train travel was utterly unconcerned with vaccination except for the singular, lackluster wristband example above. Thus, travel seemingly remains largely unconcerned with either vaccination or testing status. Might not trains be more confined and concerning than restaurants?
Thus, various countries have different approaches despite the seemingly unifying effects of the European Union. Within countries, various regions and states have different approaches and requirements. And, within various communities, businesses seemingly have various perspectives on the laws and requirements they face. In all, there is as much difference in perception, perspective, regulation, and enforcement across Europe as I have seen across the States. The one unifying feature of COVID reaction seems to be the very inconsistency of concerns, regulations and approaches.
Thus, in the efforts of governments and businesses, there seems variation, inconsistency, and at times confusion. Europe is no exception to the variety and assortment. But, the food and wine are fantastic. I'm here 'til Thursday, try the veal.
